August 2009

Warm weather, meat on the grill, margaritas — they all go together, at least at our house.  While I can’t really get enough of the first two, I can max out on the third, and not just because of my blood alcohol level.  Of course, there are other refreshing summer cocktails, like the WASPish gin […]

This relish is a culinary magic trick I learned from the great Judy Rodgers of San Francisco’s beloved Zuni Cafe and perform regularly, particularly in the warmer months.  With the exception of the optional preserved lemon, it’s made of common pantry ingredients (which, I think, should include preserved lemon, but that’s another subject), comes together […]

What’s makes a perfect dish?  The answer, of course, depends on the circumstances, but, in my world at least, it’s likely to meet the following criteria:  delicious, uniquely flavored, quick, inexpensive, good to prepare in advance, nearly foolproof.  This one handily passes all of those tests, but even if it didn’t, I’d still make it […]

Preserved lemon is a complex, almost exotic flavor that really needs a better name.  Calling this condiment “preserved lemon” is sort of like calling a nice Bordeaux “preserved grape juice:” it’s technically accurate, but it misses the point.  Forget candied lemon peel and its sticky sweet fruitcake friends.  Originating in Morocco, preserved lemon is a […]