This is a drink for Manhattan lovers — the cocktail, that is, not necessarily the island. But on the island a couple of weeks ago, at a restaurant called Lyon in the West Village, I had a particularly delicious version of this drink, and a little chat with the bartender revealed his secret.
Ordinarily a Red Hook is a Manhattan with Maraschino liqueur standing in for around half of the vermouth, giving the classic drink a bit wet cherry kiss. It’s a nice idea (Maraschino cherries are, after all, the traditional garnish for a Manhattan), but it’s a little too sweet for my taste, and I think the big flavor of the Maraschino overwhelms the more subtle virtues of the vermouth.
At the Lyon, they substitute kirsch (or kirschwasser), a cherry brandy, for the Maraschino. Kirsch is dryer than Maraschino liqueur, and has a more intense flavor that verges on bitter. They also use Carpano Punt e Mes, a brand of sweet vermouth that’s stronger and livelier than most, and stands up well to the added fruit. The result is taut, balanced, warming drink that’s actually a bit drier than a classic Manhattan. Although it’s not (to my knowledge) part of the Lyon recipe, I also recommend substituting one dash of orange bitters for one of the traditional two dashes of Angostura to brighten up the flavor a bit. (Try this with a Manhattan too.) Kirsch and Punt e Mes are both widely available in good liquor stores and from online sources such as bevmo.com.
Recipe
2 ounces rye whiskey
1/2 ounce kirsch
1/2 ounce Punt e Mes vermouth
1 dash Angostura bitters
1 dash orange bitters
Pour all ingredients into a shaker full of ice. Shake well and strain into a coupe or cocktail glass, or serve on the rocks. Garnish with brandied or Maraschino cherries.
It’s a great way to finish out the last blustery months of the brown liquor season.
