David and I are on a short trip to Paris and London, and we’re having a lovely time. It’s full-on fall in Paris — the leaves are turning, it’s a little chilly, and, of course, there’s the daily drizzle. No matter, though. Paris does grand very well, but it does cozy even better.
We’re staying in the Marais, right in the beautiful early 17th-century Place des Vosges. To reach our hotel, you turn off of one of the arcades that surround the square, pass though a stone gateway and through these doors (I love the floating modern brass handles)
to reach this, the forecourt of the charming Pavillion de la Reine hotel.
The interior is a cozy and elegant mix of the old –limestone floors, oak beams, persimmon velvet walls– and the new –simply upholstered, pared-down furniture, contemporary art– that makes me want to settle in for weeks. (The picture at the top is the view from our little attic suite.)
We haven’t had a set agenda. Between a few business errands, we’ve mostly been wandering the city’s beautiful and fascinating streets until our feet hurt, seeking out new neighborhoods and revisiting old favorites.
Jean Nouvel's Musee du quai Branly, housing objects from African, Asian, Oceanian and the American civilizations.
A green wall at the Branly.
The gloriously un-malled Gallerie Vivienne.
My idea of the perfect wine bar.
Of course, we’ve been eating well. Highlights include a salad of perfectly cooked haricots verts in a vinaigrette topped with slices of fois gras at Ma Bourgogne in the Place des Vosges (I’ll be trying that at home), slices of perfect roast beef topped with a paper thin sheet of aspic at Le Meurice, and the duck confit at Le Pre aux Clercs in St. Germain. I guess in some ways it’s good we’re not staying long . . . .
